Posts Tagged ‘Delta’

It is a gray winterday when we arrive in Clarksdale, first real stop for us on the Delta Blues Trail. We only have one night here so we are trying to get the best out of it. The first big surpise is the Riverside Hotel. The old wooden building was once the only hospital for colored people in the region. Since 1941 however it has been transformed into a hotel by its owner Frank ‘Rat’ (“you are thinking of a rodent! right?”) Ratcliff. Rat has had the cream of the crop of blues and rock ‘n roll artists stay at his place. Proudly Rat shows us around the Riverside hotel. Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, Ike Turner, JFK Junior, The blind boys from Alabama, Sam Cook, they all stayed in one of the cosy rooms filled with furniture from Rat childhood till present

.

Rat sure knows how to make people feel at home. In the corner of his ‘office’ stands a guitar for general purpose use. When joining him on the old couch, he tells stories about times long gone…. or are they? Recently Clarksdale started to climb out of recession as tourism is slowly starting to pick up on the great number of Juke Joints and blues bars.

from thursdays to sundays, every place in town has live music. It is Saturday night so we dicide to paint the town. First is the well known Ground Zero Blues Bar, owned by Morgan Freeman, who obviously next to affinity with Clacksdale also saw the possibilities to do something here. Ground Zero has managed to attract big names as well as local talent  to perform life. Tonight is quiet, although there is nothing wrong with the quality of the band. A group of young women are dancing while others play a game of snooker or chat at the bar.

At 1130 we decide to check out Red’s bar. This is a real Jukejoint: The dark place where the band is lit by the neon light on the wall, and with only 2 meter to spare between the band and the bar, you are immediately surrounded by the blues. 50 people would probably more than fill this place up to the brim. Red, owner of the club, has been drinking tonight and decides to give everybody shit. Most people just ignore him and enjoy the battle between the guitar and the harmonica.

Here in Clarksdale, the heart of the Mississippi Delta, the blues became big. It was here on the crossroads of Hwy49 and 61  that the legendary  Bluesman Robert Johnson sold his soul to the Devil in exchange for his gifted guitarplay. It was here, where Muddy Waters Grew up in the cottonfields to become one of the biggest heroes of the Delta Blues. It is here, where the Blues tradition is passed on to the next generation. It is in their veigns and part of their DNA. Being in Clarksdale was a unique experience and I know for sure that I will be back here some day.